Our route off the Great Island to Kinsale took us past Martello Towers so just as they were built by the English, who occupied Ireland at that time, to guard against invasion by Napoleon off the coast of Kent so was Cork with it superb natural harbour also seen as vulnerable to invasion by the French.
We bypassed Cork in a road tunnel completed in 1998 that diverts some 30,000 vehicles a day from the city centre, thus relieving thetraffic gridlock that had bedevilled the city for a decade or so and continued our journey on a much improved motorway and ring road network largely constructed with European Market subsidies. We were soon, however, off the main roads in the lush green rolling countryside of this extreme South East tip of Ireland. Greener and lusher than perhaps even I had expected since like UK Ireland has had the wettest summer on record with the equivalent of 3 months worth of rain in June alone. Good for the large herds of Frisian-Holstein cows grazing on the lush grass but not so good for the harvest with many crops still standing in muddy fields and the road busy with tractors transporting wheat, barley and oats or bales of straw as local farmers made the best of the sunny weather that had prevailed over the last 5 days although not this morning which dawned rather grey andovercast.
Kinsale is one of Ireland’s most historic towns and set in a very attractive location on the estuary of the Bandon River. It has been a centre of commerce, trade and fishing for centuries. Where once hundreds of fishing boats would have been seen landing herring and mackereltoday is filled with leisure craft. Boats still land their catch in this harbour but the associated coopering (barrel making), net repairing and sail making have long since disappeared.
Kinsale was founded in the 12th Century by Anglo-Normans. By the time Edward III of England awarded Kinsale its first charter in 1334 it was already a thrivingport and town and by 1666 was described as “one of the most significant harbours in Europe” trading mainly in wine and salt and an established first port of call for ships from America and the Continent, because to its ability to supply agricultural produce and turf for fuel from the surrounding countryside by means of the River Bandon. Two major fortifications on the seaward side remain to this day – the James and Charles Forts – demonstrating the importance of defending this important harbour.
After coffee accompanied by a huge scone with lashings of jam and clotted cream - well I had the coffee Peg had the scone! - we had about 45 minutes to explore this cosy town with its narrow streets radiating from the harbour, colourful buildings sitting cheek by jowl with cottages with small front gardens bursting with dahlias and other flowers - it reminded me of a small Devon town.
Back on the bus we followed the Bandon River and were soon in rolling countryside with great herds of Frisian cows gently grazing the lush green grass – a magnificent panorama to end our visit to Kinsale (See Photo).
No comments:
Post a Comment