Thursday, 13 September 2012

Tuesday 11th September 2012 ­ Ponta Delgada, San Miguel, Azores

Although on a previous cruise in November 2009 returning from the Caribbean I had visited Ponta Delgada and commented that it was anarchipelago of islands that I would like to explore in more depth our return today as part of the hurricane avoidance strategy was somewhat unexpected!  I have however tracked down the photos that I took on the previous visit buried deep in my hard drive on the computer!

We arrived in bright sunshine with a cooling breeze and a strong rain shower as we disembarked but thankfully the rain showers held off as Peg and I enjoyed a ramble round this delightful port town.  The 9 volcanic islands that rise some 7000 metres from the seabed that make up the Azores are in total an independent territory of Portugal courtesy of the famous explorers/sailors who used theislands as the last landfall before setting off for the edge of the world!  Consequently Ponta Delgada has many churches in which the sailors prayed for good luck and fair winds.  One of the most magnificent is the aptly named ‘Convent and Church of Our Lady of Hope Santa Cristo Sanctuary’.

One cannot but be impressed by the stunning architecture of many of the earliest buildings with there dark black volcanic superstructures contrasting with the bright white of the walls (See Photo).  Many of the later buildings are painted in blue or pink that makes for a very colourful, green town dotted with tranquil gardens gay with fuchsias, geraniums and ‘bird of paradise’ flowers.

Behind the old city gates (See photo – taken in November 2009 and so featuring Christmas decorations) lies a maze of narrow streets with intricate patterns set out in cobbles.

The 9 islands all have a different character but San Miguel the largest is also noted for its pineapple plantations and dairy products.  The display of local cheeses found in one shop was impressive and I seem to remember from my previous visit that San Miguel sends large quantities of cheese, yogurt, milk and other dairy products to mainland Portugal some 1000 miles to the east.

We were reminded San Miguel is not immune from the Portugal’s ailing economy when the Captain announced that we would be delayed docking whilst the port authorities negotiated with the Dockers who were threatening to join a strike called on the mainland.  Eventually all was well and we docked about 15 minutes late!

So an enjoyable place to wander around, browse in the many boutiques and gift shops and reflect on what it must have been like to set sail with few navigational aids and wondering if you would ever return.  A cup of coffee on the sea front ended our short but pleasant visit to Ponta Delgada.

One fact I learnt is just how far flung the islands of the Azores are.  We left Ponta Delgada at 4.00pm on the 11th and the following day the Captain in his noon report mentioned that we had just passed the western most island of the Azores having steamed some 400 miles in the interim – I still want to come back and explore this archipelago at some time in the future!

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